Vintage Update – Germany, 2006

Nov. 16, 2006:
After one of the hottest Julys on record, August was wet in Germany with intermittent showers that continued and increased through September. Early October brought more rain to the point that Dr. Manfred Prum wondered whether it was even worth while sending pickers into the vineyards. But after the first week in Ocotober, the rain stopped. Now, nearly three weeks later, after pickers were sent through the vineyards to eliminate damaged grape clusters, there is cause for hope: with the thick skins Riesling developed as a result of the July heat, what is left on the vine has matured to the point with plenty of botrytis from morning fogs that Theo Haart of Reinhold Haart, the best grower in Piesport, compares the vintage to 1976. Dr. Manfred Prum of Joh. Jos. Prum says that “yes, vintage is like 1976 but better.”

Rudi Wiest says that at this point there is almost nothing but Spatlese and higher praedicates, adding that “God must want us to drink more botrytised Riesling” as there is plenty of botrytis even in the Spatlesen. Top estates are waiting for further concentration to pick Gold Cap Auslese, BA, and TBA.

It is still early, with most wines not having even finished fermenting, but the raw data (ripeness, acidities, etc) indicate that the Middle Mosel and Nahe were again at the top rank along with Franken which saw almost no rain in September and Ocotber: Silvaner & Scheurebe fans take note. The one dark lining to this bright news is that the vintage is one of the smallest in recent years. Average yield looks to be about 30 hectoliters per hectare or about 2.2 tons per acre, about 45-50% lower than usual. But the good news is that what looked like a disaster in early October has become a fine vintage especially for lovers of botrytised Spaltese and Auslese. ...more as I get information from Rudi Wiest.