A Connoisseur’s Tour of New Zealand

Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008
New Zealand
Moderate

Founded in 1996, Kim Crawford wines were among the first bottled with Stelvin screw caps under the New Zealand Screw Cap initiative which eliminates cork taint. Today almost all of New Zealand’s white wines are bottled under Stelvin as is this unoaked Chardonnay — the first wine from the Kim Crawford label. Wine maker Kim Crawford was looking for a wine that didn’t rely on oak aging to be of interest. Consequently, the fruit has to be of the highest quality, ripe and full of flavor. Orchard fruits such as apples and pears combine with lifted, freshening citrus notes from acidity. The wine undergoes malo-lactic fermentation, which softens it, and then lees aging adds a full, supple texture. Fresh and lively on the palate, the 2008 shows lovely ripe apple and pear flavors with just a touch of brioche notes from lees aging. Enjoy with sautéed flounder or baked lemon chicken.

Pegasus Bay Riesling 2007
Waipara
Moderate

Waipara is on the South Island, north of Christchurch, south of Marlborough, west of Pegasus Bay from which the winery takes its name. Founded by the Donaldson family, these sustainable farmed, rocky and gravely vineyards yielded a small, concentrated crop in 2007 which shows in the depth of flavor as well as the wine’s medium to full-bodied, supple texture. Bright, fresh and greeny straw in color, the aroma is intense, marked by passion fruit, lime and flowers. This carries over to the medium-dry flavors sustained by a discrete minerality underlying the wine. On the long finish there’s even a touch of grapefruit, making the wine ultimately savory and moreish. Enjoy with grilled seafoods especially if flavored with ginger and lime.

 

Drylands Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough
Moderate

First planted by Ewan Robinson in 1980 with 33 acres of vines including Sauvignon Blanc on its own root stock, this Home Block section now has some of New Zealand’s oldest Sauvignon vines whose fruit is used in this bottling. Harvested April 2008 and bottled in August 2008, this Sauvignon shows classic, intense Marlborough characteristics of tangy citrus tones of grapefruit and lime accents along with dominant passion fruit. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity, the palate is vibrant but with a supple feel to the succulent fruit. There’s an elegant, harmonious character to the fruit that lingers in the long finish. Enjoy with lime-marinated shrimp.

 

Felton Road Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago
Premium

Central Otago on the South Island near Canterbury is where much of New Zealand’s Pinot Noir excitement is. Here in this extremely marginal climate (early Spring and Fall frosts: New Zealand’s only continental climate rather than maritime) and on these mainly schistous soils, Felton Road is making Pinot Noir capturing that elusive combination of savory richness and delicate intensity that so captivates Burgundy and Pinot lovers. Organically and biodynamically grown, the fruit is fermented mainly as whole berries and clusters with wild yeast starting fermentation, and gravity then used to move the wine capturing the intense mineral and finely shaded, nuanced dark fruit. Be sure to give the wine a little air for it to bloom in your glass.

 

Kumeu River Village Chardonnay 2007
Auckland
Moderate

If the Kim Crawford Chardonnay is unoaked and from regions throughout New Zealand, Kumeu River is from Auckland on the North Island. Labelled ‘Village’ as part of the three-tier hierarchy of wines moving from Estate to Single Vineyard, the Village Chardonnay is hand-harvested. It is whole-cluster pressed for the finest, least phenolic juice, then after ambient yeast fermentation, one-third is aged in French oak barrels while the remainder is in stainless steel. This allows the oak to play a supporting, framing role adding its touch of extra depth and hazelnut accent to the fresh peach aromatics of the fruit.

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