2007 St Nicolas de Bourgueil
‘Les Rouilleres’ Frederic Mabileau
Loire, France
Moderate

From the classic appellation of St Nicolas de Bourgueil (southwest of Tours along the Loire river in northern France), comes this almost Burgundianly fruited example of the revolution in fine Loire red wines. Careful hand-selection in the vineyard (rare in the Loire now) and further selection in the cellar eliminates any under-ripe grapes so there isn’t any lean, excessively green character as found in the past in too many Lore red wines. Made of 100% Cabernet Franc from a 35-year-old, organically managed vineyard planted on sand and gravel, the grapes are fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel before bottling in the spring following the harvest. This is an ideal red wine for a Texas spring or summer with its nuanced, delicate, fresh mulberry and black currant fruit over a base of mineral. Silken and medium weight in texture with a crisp focus of flavor on the palate, this is an ideal Spring wine to match with patés or grilled meats or baked mushrooms.

2006 Chinon ‘Les Chiens-Chiens’ Domaine de la Noblaie
Loire, France
Moderate

If Mabileau’s St Nicolas de Bourgueil is almost Burgundian in fruit, this Chinon is more like a Bordeaux in structure and style with its cedary, black currant fragrance and medium-dry, though velvety tannins. Not surprising as wine maker 24-year-old Jerome Billard spent a six-month internship at Château Pétrus and then a year at sister estate Dominus in Napa. Made from 100% Cabernet Franc vines of 40 to 80 years old, the single vineyard “Les Chiens-Chiens” is hand-harvested, then fermented in stainless steel then aged for a year in two- and three-year-old oak barrels. (The vineyard name ‘Chiens-Chiens’ or ‘Dogs-Dogs’ indicates the affection the owner has for canines.) The result is a medium deep, glowing ruby crimson color with a discrete, elegant bouquet suggesting cedar and red fruit. There’s a classic accent of pencil lead (Pauillac fans take note) as well as a dark minerality to this youthful 100% Cabernet Franc. Look for it to improve over the next five or more years.

2007 Cambria Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir
Santa Maria Valley, CA
Premium

Cambria Julia’s Vineyard, just 15 miles from the Pacific’s cooling fogs, is a full, almost plush textured, velvety Pinot Noir that has at its core a warm, spiced plum, cherry character displaying how well Pinot Noir grows in this cool section of Santa Barbara county. With a wide range of clones – including historic California and modern Dijon clones – the wine has a glowing, medium-deep ruby color which also results from the seven-day cold soak before fermentation started. Open-topped fermenters allow the cap to be punched down. The fully integrated oak is a result of aging the wine in French oak barrels (30% new) from the Vosges forests for slightly more than seven months.

2006 Château D’Arcins Cru Bourgeois
Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
Premium

Gold-medal at the 2008 Concours Mondial in Brussels. Classic, elegant, complex but discrete claret: what Bordeaux does so well and uniquely. A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc that gives structure, flesh, and aromatics which are lovely in this wine: cassis in the form of both fruit and black currant leaf, cedar, mineral, a touch of smoke and the elegance expected of where it is grown: at the northern border of gravely Margaux, south of St. Julien in the village of Arcins. The wine is medium bodied, with the ‘cut’ or freshness of these varieties grown in a cool, marginal climate. The medium level of tannins and the youthfulness of the fruit and the length of the finish suggest this still has at least another three to five years of development. A classic match would be grilled chops or rack of spring lamb.

2008 Rosé of Sangiovese Robert Oatley
Mudgee, Australia
Moderate

Here’s a supple, fresh, and sprightly dry rosé made from Sangiovese, the great red variety responsible for Tuscany’s greatest Chianti, Brunello and Vino Nobile. But this Sangiovese is grown in Australia at 1500 feet altitude in Mudgee, 162 miles northwest of Sydney. This is where the first Australian plantings of Italian Barbera and Sangiovese are located in the Robert Oatley vineyards of rocky clay and sandstone derived from Greywacke. The 2008 is made by the classic saignée method where juice is drawn off the grape skins after a few hours of maceration through which the juice acquires its delicate pink color. Aromas are of dried cranberry, mineral and a touch of rosemary. Supple and smooth, the wine is dry with the bouquet translated into flavor with a succulent, juicy finish.

2009 Sofia Rosé
Monterey, CA
Moderate

Sofia Rosé is a vibrant, fruity but basically dry Rosé that is aromatic with hints of red fruit and spice. Grown in Monterey Country, this cool region requires particularly well-sited vineyards where Grenache and Syrah can ripen. Once picked, the crushed juice macerates for 48 hours in order to extract color and flavor from the blue-black grape skins. Fermentation proceeds in stainless steel and then the wine is aged for a few months in vats in order to conserve the wine’s fruit and liveliness. The color is a bright, pinkish crimson with intense aromatics of red fruit such as raspberry and cherry. Dry and supple on the palate, there is also a bright hint of mint and rose aromatics to the wine. Try with Italian salumi appetizers or a margherita pizza or a platter of sliced tomato and basil.

2008 Tommasi Chiaretto Bardolino
Veneto, Italy
Moderate

Chiaretto is a rosé from Bardolino using the same varieties to make a fresh, delicate wine that on account of its intense minerality matches a wide range of spring and summer dishes. Produced from 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella and 10% Dindarella, the 2008 is bottled under screw cap for freshness. The 2008 has a mineral, almond, and dried cranberry scented aroma. Dry but supple on the palate, this Chiaretto has a sprightly flavor of dried red fruit and a note of almond. The acidity and dryness make it a great match to a range of Italian salumi, those dried cured meats whether prosciutto, salamis, or pancetta. Also pairs beautifully with pizza.

2007 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rosé
Côtes du Rhône, France
Moderate

One of the leaders in quality and innovation in the region through his dedication to lower yields and organic and biodynamic vine cultivation, M. Chapoutier produces a Côtes du Rhône rosé that is expressive of the fruit, herbal and mineral scents typical of southern France. 2007 was an outstanding vintage for the Rhône, and this wine is composed mainly of the bedrock variety grown here: Grenache, which brings body, warmth, and the dried fruit notes of cherry and cranberry to the wine. There is also floral Cinsault and Syrah spice and structure. On the palate the wine is dry, with intense mineral notes as well as accents of thyme, fennel, and rosemary along with its juicy and succulent character. Perfect with pasta and chopped olives or tomatoes.

2008 Domaine de Nizas Rosé
Côteaux du Langedoc, France
Moderate

From the rocky, herb and wildflower scented hills of southern France 20 miles inland from the Mediterranean, the certified sustainably grown 2008 Domaine de Nizas Rosé is exquisitely delicate, elegant, and subtle. The vines are 40% Grenache (the mainstay of southern French wine) grown on gravel and clay-limestone blended with 20% Mourvèdre and 40% Syrah planted on basalt. The color is a bright pink with tile undertones. Both bouquet and flavor show spice, floral-herbal tones of lavender and roses. From its racy, mineral scented bouquet to its supple, medium-bodied texture and dry fresh flavors, this rosé would be a great match with vegetable appetizers or olives and almonds or grilled eggplant and lamb or pork dishes.