Wines from the Hess Group

Most California wine lovers know the expressive wines of Donald Hess’ vineyards perched on Mount Veeder on the west side of Napa Valley. And modern art-lovers will know his art gallery located in the original Christian Brothers winery on that moutain with its collection of artists’ work from Robert Motherwell and Francis Bacon to Anselm Kiefer to Franz Gertsch.

This month we’ll look at some of the new releases from Hess California as well as look at Donald Hess’ exciting new wine venture in Argentina, which can be framed in descriptors such as biodynamic farming on the highest and some of the oldest vineyards in the world. This new  venture in Argentina adds to the Hess Group of wine estates, which include Glen Carlou in South Africa and Peter Lehmann wines from Barossa Valley in Australia.

 The Colomé Estate wines come from the eastern slopes of the Andes mountains where these vineyards were first planted in 1854 (10 acres) and added to in the 1860s (17 acres). This core of vines planted on their own rootstock included Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, whose cuttings came from pre-phylloxera Bordeaux vineyards. There is also a small planting, nearly 90 years old, of Argentina’s signature white variety, Torrentés, producing characterful dry, spicy white wine.

The 20th and 21st century plantings continue with these two red varieties from Bordeaux as well as Tannat, famous for the sturdily rich and firm red wines of Madiran in southwest France. All the vines are farmed biodynamically, the ultimate in organic viticulture, whose aim is to restore vibrant microbial life to soils thereby allowing vines to more fully express not only their own varietal character but that character as shaped and formed by the unique conditions, both geologic and climatic, of the vineyard. These are the highest vineyards in the world at 7,200 to 9,892 feet, which allows for a cooler, more even temperature conducive to high quality. But there is also the advantage of increased ultraviolet (UV) rays, which some studies suggest appears to foster the development in the grape skins of reverastrol, one of the key anti-oxidative substances claimed to be responsible for wines’ healthy cardiac benefits.

In the same way that Malbec, though originally from France, seems to have reached its greatest expression in Argentina, so Torrontés, thought to be related to a Spanish variety of the same name, is to date the country’s signature white wine variety. Dry, crisp, of medium weight, the wine’s most distinctive feature is a spiciness in both bouquet and taste that reminds some of Alsace’s dry Muscat wines. That rose and citrus-scented character lingers in a long, focused finish. Try this with assorted hors d’oeuvres such as dry cured meats — prosciutto, ham, dry sausage and breads. The bottle I tried had harmless tartrate crystals on the cork, a quality sign that the wine was not subjected to a cold-stabilization process that can reduce nuances of aroma and flavor in a wine. In some countries, these crystals are called ‘wine-diamonds’ and are indicative of a wine maker’s concern for preserving all the character of a fine wine.

This is only the third vintage for the Colomé Estate red wine, but even six months has seen some development in the wine. From its spiky, rambunctious youth, the wine has now developed a persistent floral perfume especially noticeable in the flavor. Still inky, purple black in color, the wine is nevertheless fresh and lively on the palate in spite of its ripe 14.5% alcohol. The flavors combine Malbec’s game and forest notes with super ripe Cabernet’s juicy, almost essence of cherry and blackberry fruit. As in my recommendation in the Spring issue, a juicy, grilled New York strip steak seems like a good combination.

Hess Select — California

Hess wines originated from vineyards on Mount Veeder in Napa Valley, and these wines are known as the Hess Collection. But as demand for the wines increased, Hess moved into cool Monterey County for a source of good value Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon with the security offered by the Hess name for quality at each price point. In addition to Monterey other vineyard sources include Mendocino and Lake County north of Napa.

This is a chardonnay meant to be enjoyed in the flush of youth, while the aromas are bright with hints of tropical fruit supported by a savory touch of mineral and a hint of bready creaminess. Medium-weight, supple and smooth, this is a wine to enjoy with lighter seafoods and poultry dishes. The core portion of this wine comes from Hess’ 352 acre Shirtail Vineyard in Monterey county, whose cool Pacific breezes and fogs make for one of the coldest growing regions in California.

This has become one of California’s top values in a rare mountain vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Traditonally these mountain Cabernets were esteemed for the raw, brute force of their power. Rocky, non-fertile, thin soils gave super concentrated grapes that also had at times ferocious tannins needing a decade or two to come into balance with their fruit if they ever did. Better viticulture leading to riper tannins as well as more skillful, gently handling of the grapes in the winery now gives wines with focused power but with much softer, velvety tannins allowing the wines to be enjoyed in their relative youth without sacrificing ageability. The Hess Collection 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon from Mount Veeder is such a Cabernet: lush in texture, deep and complex flavors, with the promise of further development. This vintage has an intense flavor of mineral along with an almost chocolate, roasted coffee bean note. The 2004 vintage is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot, which blend was aged for 22 months in 55% new French oak barrels. Because of the wine's youth, be sure to decant an hour or two before serving in order to allow the wine's cedary and floral bouquet to develop.